Daunting Trails - Experiences Of Monitoring Ibex Populations In The Trans-Himalayas

The author recounts with explicit details the formidable and informative experience of traversing the Pin valley in search of the majestic Ibex.

- Munib Khanyari

Pin Valley National Park is symbolic for its most awe-inspiring resident, the Asiatic Ibex (Capra Sibirica). Alongside, this region is home to one of the rarest carnivores in the world, the snow leopard Panthera uncia. Mountain ungulates like Ibex are key determinants of snow leopard populations. If we are to conserve the enigmatic snow leopard it is essential that we conserve their prey. At the Nature Conservation Foundation (NCF), in partnership with the Himachal Pradesh Forest Department, we conduct yearly population assessment of species like the Ibex. Monitoring gives a sense of population status, can direct conservation action, and help evaluate the effects of management. But with the ibex, things aren’t as simple as they seem.

As the sun hit the highest peak deep inside the long and winding Minsar (a valley within Pin Valley), we knew it was going to be a long day. Others had gone to survey and then set up camp in the adjacent valley. My partner for the day, Rinchen Tobge from Kibber village was a seasoned field worker. Pin Valley is a rugged and often unforgiving place. Rinchen and I had a quick gulp of sattu (powdered barley) as we started our trek. We had over 12 km. to traverse one way and a similar distance back to our camp. That is 24 km. of rock, ice, snow, slippery slopes, and a lot of scanning for the ibex.

In July, the height of summer, the naked sun piercing down from the cloudless sky, is strong enough to burn your skin within a matter of a few minutes. Being at nearly 5,000 m. does mean you are closer to the sun than most humans are. Yet, this sunlight is deceptively warm. Each passing gush of wind carries with it a frozen vengeance that seems like a slap on your face.