Hope For The Loom

The SavetheLoom project that revived Kerala’s handloom cotton and khadi, despite the devastating floods, is testament to how fashion as a system relies on a network; one that can be harnessed for social good and collective innovation

- Arti Sandhu

The recent focus on crafts and artisans at India’s fashion events is an encouraging sign. Multiple designers have pledged allegiance to revive craft techniques through their labels and aligned themselves with craft clusters. The promotion of textile crafts as part of their design signature and the Make in India tag has also meant a greater understanding and appreciation amongst customers for these national treasures.

Indeed, some of these initiatives appear to be bearing fruit and, through shining a spotlight, they are also helping to make craft production more visible. However, in most cases, the designer remains a critical component of this process, holding the key to the craftsperson’s livelihood. Since designers are not always wedded to working with one single craft or tend to work with those that are most popular, some craft techniques just don’t make it to the center stage. As a result, many still remain in disarray.

Such is the plight of Kerala’s handloom cotton. A remarkably fine and sophisticated fabric – that is light and airy, subtle in its decoration, and humble in its overall impact. The kasavu (fine cotton) cloth woven in Chendamangalam’s handloom cluster is a response to the area’s unique climate, flora, fauna, soil, water, natural resources, and culture. Aesthetically, this style of sari or mundu is a natural fit for the lush greenery that surrounds it and suitable for daily wear, but over time its wearing has become limited to special functions and traditional rituals. While it remains highly significant to people hailing from the region, it has for the most part been overlooked by the design fraternity in favor of more decorative textiles.