Longboard Icon. San Diego, California
Study your elders. Listen to everything they say because you’re gonna be in the same place one day. Twenty years go by like that [snaps fingers]. I remember seeing Woody Brown at Mala when he was in his 90s. I was going to surf and he was on the beach. I ran over and said, “Woody! Let’s go!” and he goes, “You go! I’ll just watch.” I didn’t get it then, but I get it now. He physically couldn’t do it, but mentally he was right there with me. He’d already been there a million times, and he was just enjoying it through other people at that point. Later I thought, “Alright, so that’s what it’s going to be like.”
Your body has a number and your body has a time constraint. No matter how many yoga classes you do or how many crossfit things you do, you’re going to run into that shit. But I’m still young, dude. Forty ain’t shit. I was competing against Nat [Young] when he was 47 and he was whooping my ass.
Self-promotion used to be such a no-no and now it’s kind of everything. With a lot of sponsors it all comes down to how many people follow you. I don’t agree with it, but I do understand it. If you’re going to be a pro surfer, which is basically asking somebody for free money, sponsors want you to have an audience. But I’ve always had a hard time wrapping my head around the idea of who would cut a paycheck for surfing because it’s not a normal sport. Pro football players get paid, but they wouldn’t be playing football and training everyday just for shits. As surfers, we’d be doing this shit no matter what.
This story is from the Volume 59, Issue 1 edition of Surfer.
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This story is from the Volume 59, Issue 1 edition of Surfer.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
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60 Years Ahead
We had a whole plan for this year. Funny, right? Surfer's 60 year anniversary volume was going to be filled with stories nodding to SURFER’s past, with cover concepts paying homage to the magazine’s most iconic imagery. Our new Page One depicts something that’s never happened in surfing before, let alone on a prior SURFER cover. And our table of contents was completely scrapped and replaced as we reacted to the fizzing, sparking, roiling world around us. In other words, 2020 happened to SURFER, just like it happened to you.
A Few Things We Got Horribly Wrong
You don’t make 60 years of magazines without dropping some balls. Here are a few
THE LGBTQ+ WAVE
Surf culture has a long history of marginalizing the LGBTQ+ community, but a new generation of queer surfers is working to change that
For Generations to Come
Rockaway’s Lou Harris is spreading the stoke to Black youth and leading surfers in paddling out for racial justice
Christina Koch, 41
Texas surfer, NASA astronaut, record holder for the longest continuous spaceflight by a woman
END TIMES FOR PRO SURFING
By the time the pandemic is done reshaping the world, will the World Tour still have a place in it?
CHANGING OF THE GUARD
After decades of exclusive access to Hollister Ranch, the most coveted stretch of California coast is finally going public
What They Don't Tell You
How does becoming a mother affect your surfing life?
Four Things to Make You Feel A Little Less Shitty About Everything
Helpful reminders for the quarantine era
The Art of Being Seen
How a group of black women are finding creative ways to make diversity in surfing more visible