BAYONNE

Alex Green is captivated by the cultural traditions, historic architecture and hidden heritage in Bayonne

- Alex Green

Few places have that sort of magnetic pull that keeps you coming back for more. Bayonne is one of them, not least for the annual Fêtes de Bayonne (29 July to 2 August), when the streets turn into a sea of white and red, the traditional dress code of the Basque Country.

This is its French capital after all, where people from all seven provinces of the Pays Basque (three in France, four in Spain), on the border of France and Spain, come together to celebrate one of the oldest civilisations in Europe.

Having witnessed this magnificent spectacle during a short time spent living in the city, I’ve returned to find there are more subtle qualities and quieter corners, where whispers of its colourful history and heritage can be heard.

Stepping off the train and crossing the Saint-Esprit bridge, a tale of a city divided by the Nive and Adour rivers begins to emerge. On one side, the industrial heartlands of SaintEsprit and Petit Bayonne are charmingly rustic, while on the other, the merchant houses made of cut stone with wrought-iron balconies that line the river’s banks, display the wealth of their owners.

Towering above this pretty scene are the two spires of the Cathédrale Sainte-Marie, which is well worth a visit to admire its grand Gothic cloister (cathedralebayonne.fr). Taking in this view across the river, it looks like a postcard wishing you were here.

A feeling of having arrived somewhere special is tangible. For some, this would have been heightened by the sense of hope and promise of a better life.

On the cocoa trail