BIARRITZ

There’s plenty more to enjoy than sun, sea and surf in this corner of La Côte des Basques, as Catriona Burns discovers

- Catriona Burns

I’m so glad I brought this jacket,” I said, zipping my waterproof up to my chin while the rained drummed on the windows outside. It was my penultimate day in Biarritz and I wasn’t going to let a bit of water get in the way. Plus, any walking I had done had mostly been to the beach, so I was keen to see more of what this world-famous seaside town had to offer.

Leaving my fair-weathered boyfriend behind, I set out in search of breakfast. On Avenue Carnot, I slowed down to admire the row of Belle Époque villas standing side by side along the tree-sheltered road, each one prettified by pink and purple hydrangea in full bloom.

On Rue Gambetta, I appeared to have found the perfect breakfast spot where street-facing chairs under the shelter of a canopy came with blankets. I was just getting cosy when the waitress broke the news: they were out of pastries.

On her suggestion, I crossed the street to the boulangerie to pick up something to go and I was immediately glad that I made the hop, skip and jump across. Flaky croissants, sugar-glazed pains au raisin and a batch of buttery brioche were just some of the delights delivered fresh from the oven. By the time I had returned to my seat, a café au lait was waiting for me; the perfect accompaniment to my still warm pains au chocolat.

Time for tapas