The train rocks softly side to side and a rhythmic click-clack echoes through the cabin. I’ve never been hypnotised, nor would I want to be, but I imagine it’s similar to the way I feel as I stare out at the vast nothingness of the Nullarbor Plain. Cruising along at 85 kilometres per hour, small shrubs and Mars-like rocks whiz by as the sunset casts a pink blanket over the barren yet beautiful landscape.
We’re aboard the majestic Indian Pacific, travelling across the world’s longest straight stretch of railroad when a man’s voice comes through the cabin speaker. He explains that the word Nullarbor comes from the Latin words “nullus” meaning “nothing” and “arbor” meaning “tree,” which is fitting as I haven’t seen a tree in hours. The only plants that can withstand the harsh conditions out here are hardy shrubs, such as saltbush and blue bush.
Impressively, the Nullarbor is just one of 16 natural landscapes showcased during the coast-to-coast crossing that travels from Perth to Sydney (or vice versa) via Adelaide. The languorous three-night, four-day rail journey offers a snapshot of our sunburnt country’s remote and rugged heartland; of a landscape that is difficult to genuinely appreciate any other way.
This story is from the May 2021 edition of Gourmet Traveller.
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This story is from the May 2021 edition of Gourmet Traveller.
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