Niseko: What To Expect

They call it the “Niseko Express”: the phenomenon that delivers vast amounts of powder snow to Hokkaido every year. The result, as LINDSAY SHERMAN reveals, is out-of-this-world skiing.

- Lindsay Sherman

Niseko United ski zone sits in the bottom left-hand corner of Hokkaido. It’s so close to the coast that clear days provide a view from the piste to the Sea of Japan. Icy Siberian winds that pass over these warm waters collect essential moisture; this turns to snow when it hits the mountains of western Hokkaido. Prevailing throughout winter, this weather system dumps fresh snow almost daily. It’s not unusual to wake up to fresh snow every day for weeks on end.

The temperature around Niseko averages minus seven degrees centigrade, which is perfect for creating super-light, dry snow. The snow in Western Hokkaido has been measured to consist of 92 to 96 percent air, resulting in fluffy, fat snowflakes and deep powder dumps. Annually, Niseko receives between 10 to 15 metres of snow, averaging around 70 to 100 days of snowfall. The depth varies day to day, from a couple of centimetres to more than 30. And the snowfall normally continues through the day, delivering a regular top-up to the piste.

Maximising Your Skiing

One of the drawbacks of this weather system is high winds that roll in with each new front. Wind can impact lift operations. At best, the highest lifts close, limiting access to the back-country and making it hard to access all four valleys on the Niseko United pass. At worst, only the lowest lifts open. This restricts skiing to the bunny slopes, hardly worth the cost of the pass. While mandatory rest days are annoying, the bonus is epic powder when the lifts reopen, with loads of accumulated snow ready to be explored. Maybe book a couple of extra days on your trip to compensate for windy, skiless days; or hire a snowmobile or book a cross-country tour for that day.