Rock Song

With endless carved pillars, ornate domes and complex design, the Jain temple of Ranakpur is a celestial dream in stone.

- Gustasp and Jeroo

We sped past two Jain nuns in white robes, carrying all their worldly possessions with them. They trudged barefoot down the highway that twisted across the ruddy landscape of Rajasthan. We were heading to the same destination: the mysterious and beautiful Jain temple town of Ranakpur. We were driven by curiosity; they let stoic devotion lead the way.

Tucked away in the folds of the forested Aravalli hills, the ancient 15th century temple of Ranakpur, 90 km from Udaipur, has something for everyone. It took us a while, and the promptings of our pujari-guide, to unravel the layout of the temple complex that stands on a massive plinth measuring 48,000 sq ft.

The moment we stepped inside this architectural marvel, we were awed by the complexity of its design: endless carved pillars, ornate domes and small shrines that encircled the main one that houses the four-sided figure of Lord Adinath, the first of the 24 tirthankara (teaching god). We were surrounded by a profusion of delicate carved sculptures depicting various deities, saints, celestial beings and playful nymphs.

Slowly, the complex scheme started to unravel into a symmetric whole, as the pujari-guide revealed that the temple has 29 halls, 20 domes and 1,444 pillars, all covered with lavish and delicate carvings. Astoundingly, no two pillars are alike. So also the overhead domes adorned with lavish images around ornate central pendants. The entire complex has been planned in such a way that natural light pours in through open courtyards. And no, it was not the light playing tricks but one pillar was distinctly crooked. According to the resident-pujari, it was intentionally built that way; a flaw to establish the fact that perfection is the prerogative of the Gods.