The Rise Of The Philophile

How designer Phoebe Philo's departure from Celine has inspired the birth of a very exclusive and nostalgic fan club

- Grace O’Neill

Phoebe Philo announced her departure from the French label Celine after 10 years as Creative Director in December 2017—and the fashion community went into a proverbial meltdown. The Internet was awash with op-eds on how Philo had changed the way women dress, and people began madly stocking up on Philo’s designs from second-hand websites.

It’s difficult to explain what Philo’s departure meant to people without resorting to hyperbole, so let’s stick to the facts. During her tenure at the brand, the British designer transformed it into what is often described as “the fashion editor’s fashion label”. Philo didn’t ride 2010’s minimalism wave, she invented it. Brands such as Khaite, Gabriela Hearst and Victoria Beckham (non-coincidentally, all brands designed by women) owe a great deal to her. It would be remiss in a tribute to Philo not to include the fact she was one of the few female creative directors at a top French fashion house. As a working mother (she has three children with her gallerist husband, Max Wigram), Philo imbued the clothes with a functionality and wearability. At Philo’s Céline (the accent is now gone, more on which later), it never felt as if someone was guessing what women want to wear; the designer just knew. On the eve of her 2009 debut, she vowed to take fashion “back to reality”—to balance beauty in clothes with the demands of everyday life.