THE FIRST FREERIDE GYBE PT 2 KEEPING IT SIMPLE

Having prepared the way in the last issue, this month it's all about the technique. Harty isolates the crucial points to making it round that first freeride carve gybe.

- Peter Hart

Aneurologist told me that you only have to attempt a new skill once for a neuro pathway to form and for that action to become a habit – good or bad. The body doesn’t necessarily know the right way to do something – it just knows the path most travelled. And it will automatically head down that path unless you take active steps to change.

In a complex sport like ours with its technical and psychological challenges, defensive habits can form all too easily and lead to a premature arrival on that dreaded performance plateau. It’s so important, therefore, that the first attempts at the gybe, if not perfect (that would be rare), are at least technically sound and lay the foundations for steady improvement.

Last month the aim was to do a little planning; choose the right kit and conditions and find a level of competence to give you the best possible chance of early success.

To recap briefly: opt for a manoeuvre-oriented 120-130L freeride (depending on sailor weight), which releases onto the plane at relatively slow speeds; feels connected to the water and does not need to be driven overpowered to feel comfortable; and which therefore allows you to use more inboard strap settings.

Target a steady 15-20 knots F4/5 so you can plane comfortably with a light freeride rig not much bigger than 6.5m.

As for personal skills, realise that unless you have a solid non-planing/flare/pivot gybe, you’ll be short of tools when it comes to completing the planing version. As for the carving itself, find a level where you’re planing comfortably - not flying on the edge of control over chop - but where you’re balanced between your feet and can feel the board react to foot pressure.