Do You Want Your Watch to Lose Its Luster?

For collectors of bronze timepieces, the answer is yes

-  David Graver

It takes education and imagination to look at a brand-new bronze watch and envision what it might look like months or years from now. People more familiar with chemically inert case materials such as stainless steel or gold, which continue to glisten in perpetuity, may be drawn to the initial untouched beauty of bronze. The metal has a warm golden-brown glow. But a distinct patina develops on bronze after oxidation and skin contact, which, to the uninitiated, might look dirty or muddy—a metal that’s been put on mute. To seasoned collectors, however, that dullness is the highest form of personalization.

Patina is polarizing. There are online watch forums dedicated to removing it (often with harsh chemicals such as ammonia or simple kitchen ingredients including vinegar) and discussions about accelerating it (which watch brands advise against, as it can lead to blotchiness). Those who know what they’re getting into treasure not only the reduced sheen but also the process behind the discoloration.

“I actually like the patinated color much better than the shiny new bronze,” says Philip Martin, an avid collector who shares watch images on his Instagram account, @wookie_wrists. “When I bought my Tudor Black Bay Bronze, I almost didn’t get it because it was so shiny. But I knew it would change rather quickly, so I gave it a shot. I really like the patina, because every watch will look a little bit different.” Martin says the act of patination itself encourages owners to wear bronze watches rather than let them sit in a safe oxidizing out of sight.