The Show Must Go On

FOR ITS FW'22 HAUTE COUTURE SHOW, CHANEL LEADS WITH AN EQUESTRIAN SPIRIT AND A JAUNTY MODERNITY

- RENEE BATCHELOR

The concept of haute couture was created by a governing body called the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM) in Paris more than 150 years ago. The term, which translates loosely to "high dressmaking", is what fashion dreams are made of pure creativity and craftsmanship at the highest levels of skill, utilising the finest materials. Reserved for a very select group, the total base number of haute couture clients is estimated at just 4,000 people globally today. That haute couture has survived since 1868 - especially in the face of fast fashion and mass production - is a minor miracle in itself.

For a house to be eligible for haute couture status, it must create made-to-order garments in an atelier that has at least 15 full-time staff, as well as 20 full-time technical workers in one of their ateliers. Each collection needs to present at least 50 original designs, including a combination of both day and evening looks. While the pieces are to be presented to the public in Paris (in the months of January and July each year), they are created for the private clients of each house, with each piece requiring more than one fitting. In fact haute couture is known as the bastion of customisation and precision - each piece can be made bespoke for a client and to her exact specifications.

With such exacting standards, it's no wonder the number of haute couture designers remains small. Today, there are around 100 members in the FHCM, and the house of Chanel is one of its most prominent members, with its president of fashion Bruno Pavlovsky serving in the executive committee. Another little-known fact that cements Chanel's status as a leader in haute couture is the fact that the late Coco Chanel designed haute couture exclusively for her namesake brand - ready-to-wear was only introduced by the house after her death in 1978. Before that Chanel remained a classical couture house.