Artof STONE

Glyptic is an ancient form of carving that may well be one of the most underrated artisanal techniques in the world of jewellery.

- ZHUAN LEE

Think of gemstone jewellery and chances are you’ll visualise sparkly faceted stones set on metal prongs. But jewellery design hasn’t always been like this. Before the art of gem-setting was developed, jewellers decorated stones by engraving patterns directly onto them. In ancient times, images of gods and auspicious symbols were carved into gemstones of protective amulets worn by warriors, or on wedding jewellery to symbolise a holy union. Engraved gemstones were also seen on imperial seals in ancient Rome, where like the jewellery and amulets, were mostly mounted on metal.

However, as carved stones often end up being separated from their original mountings over time, tracing the provenance of antique pieces can be a tricky business. But it hasn’t stopped anyone from trying. For instance, this year, L’ École, School of Jewelry Arts in Paris, presented an exhibition titled Engraved Gems – Cameos, Intaglios and Rings from the Guy Ladrière Collection. It told the story of the art of gem engraving through an extensive assemblage of curated objects, ranging from ancient Greek artefacts to 19th-century jewellery.

Make The Cut

Gemstone carving is an ancient art known as glyptic. Back in the old days, artisans relied purely on handiwork without assistance from technology or even electricity; precision tools were scarce. Spartan equipment such as bow-driven handheld devices and wooden sticks with flints attached functioned as a primitive drill. These were the earliest instruments used for gemstone carving.