Since the inception of her eponymous brand in 2007, British-Jamaican fashion designer Martine Rose has always referenced her lived experiences in the UK. Having grown up in Croydon, Rose spent much of her adolescence in the company of her grandparents, who migrated from Jamaica in the '50s.
London is a fashion zeitgeist full of buzzy, young designers, most of whom eventually disappear from the scene. What, then, gives Rose such longevity in a landscape obsessed with newness? From music subcultures to the sartorial leanings of her Jamaican family, she has merged her diasporic culture with London's melting pot of different tribes and archetypes.
She displays this essence by using familiar style codes and adding twists to silhouettes, proportions and prints. Fans of Rose's work attach themselves to her intimate and creative recounting of reality, celebrating the beauty in the mundane.
Her brand's cult status garnered attention from others in the industry. From 2016 to 2018, Rose was hired by Demna to be a consultant on Balenciaga's menswear, effectively forming a sartorial code for the house that is still seen today. Most recently, she was crowned best British menswear designer by the British Fashion Council at the 2023 Fashion Awards.
While Rose focuses on menswear, women are frequently seen on the runways of her shows. Besides a polished and thoughtfully restrained streetwear sensibility, her designs carry a sense of powerful androgyny. Women who wear Martine Rose feel strength by donning Rose's exemplified versions of traditionally masculine wear because it subverts the notion that such normative forms of masculinity should not be touched or altered.
This story is from the January/February 2024 edition of Vogue Singapore.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber ? Sign In
This story is from the January/February 2024 edition of Vogue Singapore.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Sign In
Love WINS ALL
The Cartier Love bracelet, one of the most recognisable pieces of jewellery in the world, is more versatile than ever.
A GEM of A THING
At Richard Mille, coloured sapphires are the ne plus ultra of beauty and savoir-faire.
HOT COMMODITIES
Watches by independent makers and microbrands that break the mould are some of the most collectible at the moment.
ALL AFLUTTER
Of the many Chanel symbols and icons, the feather is perhaps the most cherished by connoisseurs in the know. It comes from a lesser known part of Gabrielle Chanel's history. Before venturing into fashion and haute couture, Chanel actually established herself in Paris, in a boutique at 21 rue Cambon, as a milliner. Her first creation that was presented to the press in 1910 was a feathered hat. The latest Plume de Chanel collection of high jewellery pays tribute to the feather in all its lightness and supple movement. Six sets of romantic, evanescent jewels introduce a new, naturalistic silhouette, decorated with diamonds and an array of dazzling pink gemstones such as sapphires, tourmalines and diamonds.
GROWTH in GRATITUDE
It's a simple practice linked to higher optimism, better sleep and improved immunity. But just how much can gratitude journalling power our personalities? Vogue Singapore's contributing beauty writer investigates.
PAINT the TOWN RED
A triad for the ages. Vogue Singapore sits down with the visionaries behind some of Chanel's most trailblazing make-up products to find out more about their creative process, the new age of beauty and more.
Top SHELF
This year, enter your niche hobby era. From beekeeping to the science of fermentation, we round up nine books that delve into a wide range of peculiar subjects—any one of which might pique your interest.
PAY to PLAY
The design team behind The Standard, Singapore shares how the city's most anticipated new stay is making its not-so-standard mark.
A New DAWN
After two decades at the helm of his namesake label, fashion designer Phillip Lim sets sail on a new chapter. In conversation with Vogue Singapore, he looks back on the lessons learnt, the significance of mental health and the endless possibilities ahead.
A GLOWING LIGHT
Qatrisha Zairyah, who made history as Singapore's first transgender finalist of Miss Universe Singapore, opens up about the symbolism of pageantry and being a voice for her community.