Honing Beaver Traps and Snares

Some beaver seasons in my area, the trapping is open water the entire season; some, it can be just the opposite, with periods of cold, the ponds and lakes frozen over in thick ice

- Pat Donnelly

Any trapper who has pursued beavers knows that life is a lot simpler without ice. Ice hasn't deterred me, or other northern trappers whose only option is trapping under the ice, but open water sure is easier.

Over the years, I've "honed" my beaver trapping equipment to make my trapline more efficient, easier to work with. During those same years, I've learned where and when to use different traps that manufacturers have to offer. That honing resulted in using three basic types of beaver traps, excluding live traps: body grip (Conibear), long and coil spring foot traps, and snares.

Conibears

The most widely used trap on my line is the 330 Conibear, with a 10 x 10-inch basic opening. How the 330 is set varies widely, but the basic set is in a run that beavers have made between their feeding areas and their lodge. This can be a sure-fire set.

The quick version is running a long stick through the eyes of the springs and setting it just below the water. The stick can be supported by the bank, or a forked stick cut for that purpose. Putting a dive stick across the top, to force the beaver to dive into the trap, and "fencing" to force the beaver (or otter) into the only available opening is also key.

The 330 can also be placed on a stand in the same type of set to keep it well supported, on a float, or at a dam crossover. There are many variations. The 280 and 220 Conibears can also be used in the same places, but their smaller openings are not as accommodating for a large beaver. There are other traps with larger openings on the market and these will work, too.

The best part about a Conibear is that you are virtually guaranteed a quick and clean kill. That makes it very nice for states with longer check laws. I have used Conibears under the ice for many years.