THE BEST PIZZA I'VE EVER TASTED was in Italy. It was one of those last-mealon-earth pizzas, an ethereal soft-crisp crust graced with a simple sauce and adorned with capers, olives, and anchovies. The worst pizza I've ever tasted also had anchovies. It was from one of those wannabe Neapolitan-style joints, and I felt like I was biting into a slice studded with soggy salt packets.
And that's the whole situation with anchovies. All along the Mediterranean coast, in South Asia, and elsewhere in the world, anchovies are revered for their flavor and nutrition, which drives a demand for higher-quality products. In America, they're largely reviled, likely because of those run-ins we've all had and have since held deep within our psyches.
But something has shifted over the past several years. Though anchovies remain America's least favorite pizza topping, according to a 2021 YouGov poll, popular cooking personalities (YouTube's Matty Matheson and Joshua Weissman, for two) have begun to trumpet the small but mighty fish as a versatile secret weapon that adds a boom of umami depth to any meal. During the height of pandemic-induced home cooking, I watched anchovies attain Instagram stardom as people ate their way through shelf-stable foods. And professional chefs, too, are trying to celebrate the little fish for all it's worth. At the Anchovy Bar in San Francisco, you can enjoy anchovy toast, fresh lime-pickled anchovies, anchovy steak tartare, and anchovies with fried onions and eggs, all made in-house from the day's fresh catch.
Stuart Brioza, the restaurant's executive chef, says he has to push back continually against people's memories of bad anchovies. "For those who have suffered these shoddy products, it's important for them to know that good anchovies are out there," Brioza says.
This story is from the April 2023 edition of Men's Health US.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber ? Sign In
This story is from the April 2023 edition of Men's Health US.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Sign In
CONFESSIONS OF A CEREAL KILLER
COLD POP-TARTS? ALMOND MILK? PROTEIN CEREAL? WHAT'S THE DEAL WITH THAT? WE ASKED LIFELONG BREAKFAST LOVER JERRY SEINFELD.
When Cancer Comes for Your Nuts
Testicular cancer rates are rising, and it's most common among young men ages 20 to 40. Here, one guy describes his shocking diagnosis when he was just 24-and the warning signs that other guys should never ignore.
"Everything You Want is on the Other Side of Fear."
Ryan Gosling and David Leitch are the star and director of The Fall Guy, the romantic-action-comedy blockbuster stunt-fest you'll see at least twice this summer. But they've also built a bond over stunt work, pain, and purpose.
6 A.M. With...the Olympic Fencer
Miles Chamley-Watson's workouts are filled with jokes-and rapier-sharp intensity.
WHAT MAKES A FATHER TOUGH
Social-media wormholes, political tensions, planetary peril-who would WANT TO RAISE A KID in this world, anyway? Well, these guys. Here's what BEING A DAD has TAUGHT EACH OF THEM about HAVING GRIT right now.
FRAUD-PROOF YOUR FINANCES
Scams are everywhere, and money is one of the biggest sources of anxiety for American men. Protect your money (and peace of mind) with these moves.
THE SEMI-COMPLETE USER'S GUIDE TO...THE PANCREAS
For a small, blow-dryer-shaped organ deep in the abdomen, the pancreas has a lot of power. Here's how to keep it happy so you stay healthy.
THE NEW SCIENCE OF HIP MOBILITY
Own the weight room, crush backyard football, and beat back pain by strengthening and stretching your hips.
GOT L-THEANINE ON THE BRAIN?
Supplement makers claim this amino acid focuses the mind and calms the nerves. We have questions.
THE MOVEMENT + MUSCLE WORKOUT
Get stronger and faster with this two-part session that packs on muscle-and primes you for light-speed runs, too.