Thoroughly good eggs
Country Life UK|February 14, 2024
Tom Parker Bowles meets the mother-and-daughter connoisseurs who supply ethically farmed caviar to the Crown
Thoroughly good eggs

WHEN I started out, I really didn't like caviar,' confesses Laura King with a smile. 'In fact, I hated the stuff.' Which wasn't exactly the ideal start for a career spent selling the most expensive fish eggs on earth.

But now, 30 years later, King's Fine Food is the UK's largest importer of caviar, with a turnover of nearly $3 million. 'I must have tried thousands of varieties and have come to love and appreciate caviar. But I still get so excited when trying out new batches.' It's a couple of weeks before Christmas and King's headquarters, on a small, nondescript Twickenham industrial estate, is deep into its busiest time of the year. Every surface is covered with boxes, labels and invoices and in vast fridges, hundreds of different-sized tins-from tiny, two-bite 10g minis, to mighty 1kg monoliths-are piled up, ready to be couriered to the likes of Fortnum & Mason, Harrods, Claridge's, The Ritz and Scott's.

'Everyone mucks in here, from taking pallets to the tip to packing and labelling,' says Mrs King, clad in a hairnet and white coat, and sitting behind a vast 1.8kg tub of Belgian Oscietra caviar. She's been decanting the contents into smaller tins and it takes all my resolve not to dive headfirst into that slategrey mass of gloriously gleaming eggs. For the caviar lover, this place really is Nirvana. But Mrs King seems to read my mind. 'It's hard work,' she notes, and not at all glamorous.

This story is from the February 14, 2024 edition of Country Life UK.

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This story is from the February 14, 2024 edition of Country Life UK.

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