A DECADE AGO, when some of the earliest natural-wine bars-Estela, Contra-arrived in New York, they offered a first taste of Paris's bistronomie movement, where chefs applied haute cuisine flair to daily-changing menus and locavore ingredient sourcing. Now the progeny of those kitchens are running their own spots around town and paring things down even further: shingles of button mushroom draped over ruby cubes of beef tartare, individual tart shells filled with a mash of fava beans, a puck of lentils in a sauce of herb oil. Their naturalistic and understated touch has resulted in some of the most dialed-back new dishes in the city.
Jay Wolman
Mimi (185 Sullivan St., nr. Bleecker St.) and St., nr. W. Houston St.) Babs (72 Macdougal
This story is from the December 05-18, 2022 edition of New York magazine.
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This story is from the December 05-18, 2022 edition of New York magazine.
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