Not Like Nonna
New York magazine|Aug 12 - 25, 2024
Small portions and high prices undermine Massara's genial charm.
MATTHEW SCHNEIER
Not Like Nonna

The campanian tourist board must be at it again. After years of the region losing ground among well-heeled vacationers to Sicily and Puglia, suddenly a new iteration of Patricia Highsmith’s Tom Ripley, the scammer toast of Amalfi, barrels onto Netflix, and now here comes Massara, a little slice of Campania in Manhattan, which makes its boundaries clear; it’s the rare ristorante that doesn’t stock a single bottle of Barolo. That’s northern stuff. “Food in 2024 has to be regional,” Stefano Secchi, Massara’s ponytailed chef, declaimed to the New York Times as the restaurant opened in June. Campania, in the southwest of the boot—it includes Naples, Amalfi, Capri, and Ischia—favors fish, fire, and Fiano.

This story is from the Aug 12 - 25, 2024 edition of New York magazine.

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This story is from the Aug 12 - 25, 2024 edition of New York magazine.

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