THERE'S A NICOTINE light-a warm, dim, dangerous flicker that suffuses a certain kind of brasserie. Bad decisions are made here gladly. It's been years since anyone smoked in New York restaurants, but bathe in that luminescence and you can believe, for a second, that you could, maybe even that you should. Never mind that it's usually the work of highly paid lighting consultants. We flutter like moths to char ourselves in it. If a martini with fries has become the New York Happy Meal, as my colleague E. Alex Jung wrote earlier in the year, this is the New York Tan.
This story is from the December 4-17, 2023 edition of New York magazine.
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This story is from the December 4-17, 2023 edition of New York magazine.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Sign In
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