Over the Counter

Counter dining is not exclusive to Japanese gastronomy. We round up some fabulous non-Japanese restaurants to get close to the action— whether you are looking to be impressed by culinary showmanship or just want to dine alone

- Ethan Kan

SCINTILLATING SICHUAN

KUN

There is more to Sichuan cuisine than numbing peppercorns and mala, and at omakase Sichuan restaurant Kun, you get to experience the aromatic complexity that this centuries‑old cuisine offers. At the heart of the restaurant is its elegantly curved 18‑seat counter (pictured above), inspired by the ancient Chinese tradition of “winding stream parties”, where scholars would sit by a stream and compose poems before cups of rice wine floated down to them. From this vantage point, watch skilled chefs create Sichuan staples, including bamboo fungus liver paste soup, alongside modern twists on classics such as the steamed glutinous rice dumpling with caviar and spring onion dressing (pictured left).

RIGHT AT HOME

PROVINCE