HOME, SERVED HOT

Around 50 refugee chefs from Sri Lanka, Myanmar and Bangladesh showcase their country’s cuisine at a food festival in Chennai

-  LAKSHMI SUBRAMANIAN

Rajeshwari Noyal, 46, arrived as a refugee on the shores of Rameswaram in Tamil Nadu from Sri Lanka in 1990, when the conflict between the LTTE and the Sri Lankan government was at its peak. The 14-yearold did not fully understand what was happening, except that all 11 members of her family would have to sail by boat to reach a safe zone. Other than their national ID cards and a few sets of clothes, her mother only packed around 15 maida rotis and sambol, a traditional side dish of Sri Lankan Tamil cuisine. The maida rotis were meant to stay fresh for at least four days. The sambol was prepared without coconut or tuna, its usual ingredients. But upon reaching Rameswaram, the family had to throw away all the food, because the high tide had made them soggy and inedible. Rajeshwari was so hungry she was even prepared to eat the soggy rotis. However, when they got off the boat, they were served upma by officers of the Indian coast guard. “That was the first time I ate it,” she says. She was so hungry she did not even register the taste.

And now, 34 years later, Rajeshwari lives in a refugee camp in Chennai’s Puzhal, and is one of the celebrated Sri Lankan refugee chefs there. She can cook Indian and Burmese delicacies, having learnt the latter from a Burmese colleague at a health centre in Chennai, where she used to work. Along with her neighbour Nilavani Kamleswaran, 50, she runs a small restaurant in the camp.