They've done the double: it's expensive and awful
Evening Standard|June 05, 2024
WHEN a press release comes through selling a restaurant on the strength of its association with "the Mafia's banker", expectations of the cooking do not naturally balloon.
David Ellis
They've done the double: it's expensive and awful

In 2017, this was the case with 108 Garage on Golborne Road. But whaddya know? It was a critical smash. Punters though, possibly mob-weary, swerved it, and it didn't last long. What came next didn't either. "Difficult site," I said to a friend.

But then, during the Notting Hill Revolution - not a real one, but last year's cascade of new restaurants - the Counter appeared, from chef Kemal Demirasal. Upscale Turkish, but unusual. Also a bit Greek, Mediterranean, somewhat Levant-leaning. Any food boundaries in that part of the world seem to me blurred, the map perhaps smudged in olive oil. Whatever. Here was a room of romantic gloom where one might eat swampish olives, white-chocolate baba ganoush, lamb liver wrapped into a skewer. God, was it good. Everyone said so. And on that difficult site, too. Tell you where shouldn't be a difficult site, though: Kingly Street. Bar Crispin is always packed, Ain't Nothin' But The Blues has for 31 years filled the street with the drumbeat of pint glasses, and Dishoom, a chain hardly novel at 14, continues to draw nightly queues. Imagine if somewhere new opened with room to scoop up the overspill?

This story is from the June 05, 2024 edition of Evening Standard.

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.

This story is from the June 05, 2024 edition of Evening Standard.

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.

MORE STORIES FROM EVENING STANDARDView All
In the eye of the storm A rich account of Britain's political chaos
The London Standard

In the eye of the storm A rich account of Britain's political chaos

Tim Shipman’s fourth and final tome covers Johnson to Sunak, via Truss

time-read
4 mins  |
November 28, 2024
Is this government full of amateurs?
The London Standard

Is this government full of amateurs?

Labour's hard landing has revealed a cabinet struggling with the basics

time-read
4 mins  |
November 28, 2024
It's going to be weird when the national anthem plays, but I'm so proud to lead the United States
The London Standard

It's going to be weird when the national anthem plays, but I'm so proud to lead the United States

Emma Hayes closed the book on 12 trophy-laden years at Chelsea with her fifth consecutive Women’s Super League title in May.

time-read
6 mins  |
November 28, 2024
Can Guardiola fix 'fragile' City after latest implosion?
The London Standard

Can Guardiola fix 'fragile' City after latest implosion?

Rebuilding his ageing side will bea greater challenge than building it in the first place for one of the greats

time-read
3 mins  |
November 28, 2024
London wins battle of the global city brands again...
The London Standard

London wins battle of the global city brands again...

...but the capital still has plenty of work to do ifit wants to keep that crown

time-read
4 mins  |
November 28, 2024
At home with...Earl of East
The London Standard

At home with...Earl of East

The duo behind the fragrance brand have made a Leyton new-build their sanctuary

time-read
4 mins  |
November 28, 2024
How evolution evolved: the risks and rewards of gene-editing technology
The London Standard

How evolution evolved: the risks and rewards of gene-editing technology

INDIA BLOCKspeaks to paediatrician and TV writer Dr Neal Baer about the controversial advancement

time-read
4 mins  |
November 28, 2024
This beloved take on Dickens is a joyful gift that keeps on giving
The London Standard

This beloved take on Dickens is a joyful gift that keeps on giving

AIl through a bright, bitter winter day I was smiling because I was coming to see Jack Thorne's adapAtation of Charles Dickens's story again.

time-read
2 mins  |
November 28, 2024
Market merrymaking
The London Standard

Market merrymaking

Bundle up in your warmest coat, hat and mittens to visit the best Christmas markets in the UK.

time-read
3 mins  |
November 28, 2024
Festive favourites
The London Standard

Festive favourites

Perfect your Christmas spread with a vibrant spin on a seasonal staple.

time-read
2 mins  |
November 28, 2024