On my first visit to Syria, which was being torn apart by the Arab Spring, the most startling experience outside the Umayyad mosque in Damascus was a gaggle of about 100 women speaking Urdu and Hindi.
These women—from Uttar Pradesh, Telangana, and Andhra Pradesh—had defied the Indian government's ban on travel to Syria because it had become one of the most dangerous places in the world, and were visiting places of pilgrimage in the Levant.
At the mosque, the women from Lucknow and Hyderabad had queued up to reverentially press their heads against the shrine of John the Baptist. It contains the relics of Saint John, who is believed by Christians to have baptized Jesus Christ in the Jordan River. The Indian pilgrims did not refer to him, though, as John the Baptist. For them, according to Islamic belief, he was Imam Yahya. They had been told that if they pressed their heads against this shrine, they would be blessed with prophetic visions.
Religion and society in Syria, secular in its complexities for centuries, is now certain to fray. The recent experience in Syria's neighborhood following upheavals similar to the one which saw the collapse of the Assad family rule last weekend does not offer hope.
Will the relics of the baptiser of Jesus Christ, to which Pope John Paul II prayed in 2001, survive last weekend's regime change in Syria? President Hafez al Assad and his successor-son Bashar carefully maintained a separation of religion from state, which may now be ending.
In all of Syria, the only place where the Star of David is on display is at the Umayyad mosque. The Ba'ath ruling party since 1963 banned the symbol of Judaism, which is also on Israel's flag. Will the only symbol of Jewish identity in Syria now be allowed to remain in place? Or will its fate be the same as the Buddha statues of Bamiyan in Taliban's hands?
This story is from the December 12, 2024 edition of The New Indian Express Tirunelveli.
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This story is from the December 12, 2024 edition of The New Indian Express Tirunelveli.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
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