Here be dragons

For a city known for its densely packed streets and hectic pace of life, Hong Kong has a truly remarkable countryside

- STEVE WHITE

How many cities in the world have a population of millions, yet have protected about 40 per cent of their land area? Where forests of concrete towers are backed by hillsides more tree-covered today than at any time since the Second World War? Which has a vibrant and culturally important paddling scene, and since a trawling ban was enacted at the end of 2012, boasts increasing areas of recovering coral reef?

For a place whose name conjures images of bustling streets flanked by jutting skyscrapers, Hong Kong offers surprising opportunities for a lover of the outdoors. That starts with the ease of access. Much of the countryside is cheek by jowl with city blocks and the public transport system is extensive and cheap. The MTR (the city's underground and overground rail network) is clean and highly efficient, while ferries provide links to the outlying islands. On the roads, surprisingly cheap taxis transport you to most trailheads not already served by buses or minibuses.

All of these transport services, apart from taxis, accept the Octopus stored value card, which also works in many shops - so make this one of your first purchases on arrival in Hong Kong. Other essentials for outdoor adventures are a wide-brimmed hat to protect against the often-fierce sun and plenty of fluids. Armed with these, you are ready to explore the hills, forests and beaches of Hong Kong.

Scaling new heights

It's not hard to see why the Dragon's Back in the eastern part of Hong Kong Island is widely rated the city's best day hike, being very manageable and only a few kilometres long, yet delivering spectacular views.