A TALE OF TEXTURES

BHAGALPURI SILK'S NATURAL SHEEN REFLECTS THE HANDS OF SKILLED ARTISANS WHO HAVE PERFECTED THEIR CRAFT OVER GENERATIONS

- KARTIKEYA SHANKAR

FOR KAMAYANI JALAN, true sari connoisseur and President of the Delhi Crafts Council, Bhagalpuri silk saris hold a special place—"These saris are comfortable to wear, wrinkle-resistant, and perfect for both office and casual occasions."

Originating from the Bhagalpur district in Bihar, the renowned wild tussar silk fabric or Bhagalpuri silk (often used interchangeably) is distinguished by its slightly coarse texture, patterned stripes and checks of varying densities. The fabric is woven exclusively from flat yarn spun from the cocoons of the tussar silkworm Antheraea mylitta, a native species that feeds on local forest leaves.

While Bhagalpuri tussar was once a coveted export to Europe during the British Raj, the advent of cheaper, synthetic alternatives and the rise of mill-produced silks in the 20th century led to a decline in production.

This is where Niranjan Kumar Poddar's story begins. "In 1985, as a teenager, I had to leave school when my father lost his job. I started working at a Khadi Bhandar, where I learned to spin yarn," says Poddar, founder of Berozgar Mahila Kalyan Sanstha (BMKS), a prominent silk weavers’ cooperative in Bihar.