The retinol alternative

Retinol has been declared the gold standard for achieving youthful-looking skin. But did you know there are two natural plant extracts that can offer similar rewards without any irksome side effects?

-  EVA-MARIA BOBBERT

Retinoids are the Barbie of the beauty world. Youthful perfection in spades but somewhat divisive because, while they’re joyful to play with for some, they’re plain irritating to others.

On the face of it, retinoids are full of shiny, sparkly promise – Reverse wrinkles! Fade spots! Plumper! Smoother! – but it can be a bumpy friendship to forge in the real world. All that glossy hope in a box can quickly morph into red, itchy, flaky exasperation (if you’ve seen the Barbie movie, you’ll know what happens if you play too hard – it gets “weird”).

“Retinoids and retinols are both derivatives of vitamin A, and can lead to redness and dryness, especially when you first begin,” says dermatologist Dr Cara McDonald. “Those with more sensitive skin types, or problem skin prone to dermatitis or rosacea, will have particular trouble with retinoids.” If your skin is reactive – or if you’re pregnant or breastfeeding – then behold these fresh alternatives: Bakuchiol and rambutan. “Although we don’t have as much science behind these ingredients as retinoids, the emerging evidence suggests they can be very effective anti-ageing ingredients with fewer side effects,” says Dr McDonald.