Land of the Nagas

As the Hornbill Festival draws near, Kalpana Sunder recalls her trip to Nagaland that began with a cultural immersion at the luxurious TUTC Kohima Camp.

- Kalpana Sunder

Tucked away between Tibet and Myanmar in India’s relatively unexplored North East, the land that had been torn down by insurgency and attacks for six centuries has only recently opened up to tourism. My timing is perfect, the 10-day Hornbill Festival promoting solidarity of the 16 tribes in the state, has commenced, and I’m stationed only a bumpy ride away from Kohima in this bubble of a stunning luxury camp, in the midst of a jungle clearing. With the Japfu Range for a backdrop, The Ultimate Travelling Camp (TUTC) has built luxury tents here, for travellers to experience the mountain state in a most comfortable setting.

The creature comforts at The Kohima Camp commendably fulfill the checklist for glamping—the tent comes with a four-poster bed that’s piled high with cushions under a sheer mosquito net; leather chairs and cupboards are placed at different corners; the en-suite bathroom is furnished with a rain-shower cubicle; a private deck abutts the tent and opens into the woods. For some quirky additions, cosmetics are dispensed from tiny copper containers and shower caps from artsy cardboard cartons. And anticipating a guest’s every need, the cupboards have oversized woolen ponchos, a torch, umbrella, a compact room heater, besides a tiny study table that’s equipped with writing paper, postcards, and travel magazines in a leather basket.

A mobile phone rests on my bedside table to connect me with my personal ‘valet’ who thoughtfully supplies a hot water bag at night and wakes me in the morning with coffee and cookie on a bed tray. Outside in the living room, you can unwind on the comfortable sofas and leather chairs, with beautiful coffee table books on Nagaland, while sipping on your cuppa and gorging on freshly baked cookies. Here too, a curated mini library awaits a leisurely browse on a chilly evening.