Lo And Behold
Travel+Leisure India|July 2018

Lo Manthang in Mustang, Nepal, is a city stuck in time. A group of bikers battles the elements to find the capital of a lost kingdom.

Vir Nakai
Lo And Behold

“HOW HARD CAN IT BE? Over the last 10 years, we have seen some tough trails in Himachal Pradesh and Ladakh on our motorcycles,” I said to my companions. It didn’t take long for me to find out how wrong I was. At one point, I found myself huffing and puffing, pushing my friend’s motorcycle over a rock. I then watched him precariously navigate a 400-metre stretch of rocks peppered with boulders.

We were not on some backwood trail in the Himalayas, but on the road to the fabled Lo Manthang in Nepal. Lo Manthang was the walled capital of the Kingdom of Lo, which once controlled the trade route between the Himalayas and the plains of India. Today, most people know this area as the Mustang district of Nepal, and the legendary walled city is but a village. I had been drooling over the thought of riding to this historic area on my Royal Enfield Himalayan for years. And I was finally on my way, albeit very slowly.

The journey started when the six of us landed in Kathmandu. After a wait of two days to get the three permits we needed to enter Upper Mustang, we headed to our first stop, Pokhara. Crossing many a village en route, we made it just in time to watch the sunset over Lake Phewa. Pokhara is a city full of activity, but we were all itching to ride. So, we left early the next day, and sped through the next 90 kilometres to the town of Beni. Here, we refuelled our bikes as well as ourselves, before kissing the tarmac goodbye and heading out towards Kalopani. The roads here have never seen any semblance of tar, but that may soon be a thing of the past. As we rode, we noticed development work in full swing. In fact, a stretch of the road remained closed for a better part of the afternoon.

This story is from the July 2018 edition of Travel+Leisure India.

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.

This story is from the July 2018 edition of Travel+Leisure India.

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.

MORE STORIES FROM TRAVEL+LEISURE INDIAView All
Travel, Leisure, And Everything In Between
Travel+Leisure India

Travel, Leisure, And Everything In Between

Shibani and Farhan Akhtar share their travel dynamics, love for luxury, and why Raffles Udaipur, with its serene ambiance, is the ultimate getaway.

time-read
2 mins  |
November 2024
10 Elevated Experiences in The Lap Of Luxury
Travel+Leisure India

10 Elevated Experiences in The Lap Of Luxury

Travel in a luxury caravan, cook a meal with Michelin-starred chefs, chill in your private in-villa wine cellar and snorkel with seahorses-here is our handpicked list of 10 unique indulgences at some of the finest hotels across the world

time-read
6 mins  |
November 2024
The Sound Luxury
Travel+Leisure India

The Sound Luxury

In 2024, the sound of Kenny G has been replaced by lo-fi beats in resorts and elevators, transforming the traditional musical landscape. Ambient music has become essential for crafting the perfect atmosphere.

time-read
7 mins  |
November 2024
APPETITE for LIFE
Travel+Leisure India

APPETITE for LIFE

Dandelion roots and pea greens, truffles and wild mountain thyme: a meal in Slovenia is like a walk in a fairy-tale forest. Sierra Crane Murdoch falls under the country's spell.

time-read
10+ mins  |
November 2024
Silk Route Revival
Travel+Leisure India

Silk Route Revival

With its luxe offerings and ease of visa-free access to several countries, including India, Kazakhstan is slowly opening doors to travellers with a whole new set of handouts beyond the exotic, explores Shikha Tripathi

time-read
4 mins  |
November 2024
A TRANQUIL JOURNEY THROUGH TIME
Travel+Leisure India

A TRANQUIL JOURNEY THROUGH TIME

At Raffles Udaipur, discover the art of slowing down and connecting with history, nature, and yourself.

time-read
4 mins  |
November 2024
Basking in Opulence
Travel+Leisure India

Basking in Opulence

Lights, camera, glam. What is it about Rajasthan, especially Udaipur, that spells luxury travel like no other?

time-read
4 mins  |
November 2024
Tradition in Modern Tapestry
Travel+Leisure India

Tradition in Modern Tapestry

Waris Ahluwalia's insights on sustainable practices and the power of human connection in his creative journey reflect through his words, and his work.

time-read
3 mins  |
November 2024
Design, Diversity, and Sustainability
Travel+Leisure India

Design, Diversity, and Sustainability

Roopal Patel discusses the evolving landscape of global fashion, the power of personal style, her vision for a more inclusive industry, and the future of design in an insightful exchange with Samreen Tungekar

time-read
2 mins  |
November 2024
MUMBAI TO MILAN: LUXURY, CULTURE AND CULINARY DELIGHTS
Travel+Leisure India

MUMBAI TO MILAN: LUXURY, CULTURE AND CULINARY DELIGHTS

Tanya Khanijow enjoys the best of Milan with Lufthansa, from stylish shopping to tasting the city's culinary delights.

time-read
2 mins  |
November 2024