Brave New World
Travel+Leisure US|June 2023
Before her eldest son leaves for college, Heather Greenwood Davis heads to British Columbia with her family for one more epic summer adventure
Heather Greenwood Davis
Brave New World

YOU GOT THIS MOM!" The voice floating down the Bella Coola Valley belonged to my firstborn, Ethan. To see him, I raised my gaze from the carabiners that were preventing me from falling more than 100 feet into the Great Bear Rainforest below. I took a deep breath, shielded my eyes from the sun, and looked up at the 19-year-old above me. Then, despite how precariously I was perched and how uncertain I was, I kept climbing.

This particular journey marked the end of an era. Ethan was about to leave for college a few hundred miles away, and his impending move had triggered a sense of panic in me that I never expected. Traveling together is as much a part of our family culture as Scrabble tournaments and backyard barbecues. But this trip-a 10-day adventure through British Columbia-was likely the last chance for me and Ish, my husband, and Cameron, our younger son, to spend time with Ethan before his next chapter began. It was my reprieve from the grief of losing him to the world.

The very act of climbing this mountain was distraction. The via ferrata, a network of metal cables and rungs set into the rock face, is the first of its kind in Tweedsmuir Provincial Park. Our guide, Krista Gooderham, had helped calm my fears by suggesting I focus not on the distance I still had to go, but on the next rung in front of me. "Just keep going and don't look back."

Ethan and I took our first trip together when I was pregnant with him. It was my first real assignment as a travel writer: a story about a new Texas spa designed specifically for pregnant women. Without Ethan in my belly, the opportunity would likely have gone to someone else.

Since then, we've been on numerous family trips across the United States, the Caribbean, and our home country of Canada-as well as a yearlong around-the-world escapade when he was eight that included 29 countries on six continents. And now here we were on the face of Mount Walker.

This story is from the June 2023 edition of Travel+Leisure US.

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.

This story is from the June 2023 edition of Travel+Leisure US.

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.

MORE STORIES FROM TRAVEL+LEISURE USView All
Oodles of Noodles
Travel+Leisure US

Oodles of Noodles

Slurping through a lantern-lit alley in Sapporo, Japan, where miso ramen was born

time-read
3 mins  |
December 2024/January 2025 (Double issue)
The Sweet Spot
Travel+Leisure US

The Sweet Spot

Just an hour south of Miami, Nora Walsh finds a candyland of tropical fruits ripe for picking.

time-read
3 mins  |
December 2024/January 2025 (Double issue)
Freshly Brewed
Travel+Leisure US

Freshly Brewed

In the Cederberg Mountains of South Africa, Kendall Hunter discovers the powerful effects of the humble rooibos plant.

time-read
4 mins  |
December 2024/January 2025 (Double issue)
SHORE LEAVE
Travel+Leisure US

SHORE LEAVE

Raw, wild, and mind-bendingly remote, yet peppered with world-class wineries and restaurants-Australia's South West Edge is a study in contrasts.

time-read
10+ mins  |
December 2024/January 2025 (Double issue)
Of Land and Sea
Travel+Leisure US

Of Land and Sea

Savoring French flavors on a gastronomic trail between Marseille and Dijon.

time-read
4 mins  |
December 2024/January 2025 (Double issue)
FAMILY-STYLE
Travel+Leisure US

FAMILY-STYLE

Food writer MATT GOULDING couldn't wait to get back to the hushed omakase restaurants of Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka. But would his young kids love the country-and its cuisine as much as he does?

time-read
10+ mins  |
December 2024/January 2025 (Double issue)
HAPPY MEAL
Travel+Leisure US

HAPPY MEAL

Many tascas, the no-frills dining spots in Lisbon, have vanished. But others, Austin Bush discovers, are being lovingly reinvented.

time-read
7 mins  |
December 2024/January 2025 (Double issue)
A City Abuzz
Travel+Leisure US

A City Abuzz

In underappreciated Trieste, Taras Grescoe finds some of Italy's most storied-and spectacular-coffee shops.

time-read
4 mins  |
December 2024/January 2025 (Double issue)
FJORD FOCUS
Travel+Leisure US

FJORD FOCUS

Norway in December? Crazy-and crazy beautiful. Indulging a family wish, Akash Kapur discovers a world of icy enchantment.

time-read
9 mins  |
December 2024/January 2025 (Double issue)
DESTINATION OF THE YEAR Thailand
Travel+Leisure US

DESTINATION OF THE YEAR Thailand

Full disclosure: I didn't like Bangkok at first. I didn't get it—the chaos, the traffic, the fact that everything was hard to find. But like all good love affairs, my relationship with Thailand—which deepened when I moved from Vietnam 12 years ago to work at Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia, where I'm now editor in chief—took time to blossom.

time-read
9 mins  |
December 2024/January 2025 (Double issue)