LIFE in COSTUME

The ersatz opulence of costume jewellery is a delight not to be overlooked.

- GORDON NG

Gabrielle Chanel once said that a woman should mix fake and real jewels. "The point of jewellery isn't to make a woman look rich but to adorn her; not the same thing." The designer blew the doors open in the 1920s for costume jewellery to ascend as fashionable (and socially acceptable) accessories. Today, that influence is stronger than ever. Nearly every luxury fashion brand has a hand in the costume jewellery space. In fact, according to a report by Straits Research, the global market for ersatz baubles, valued at US$40.98 billion in 2022, is estimated to grow to US$79.22 billion by 2031. The hunger for costume jewellery is at a high.

The revived house of Schiaparelli under the artistic direction of Daniel Roseberry can be said to be a driver of this renaissance. He describes bijoux as "essential to the maison's identity". Indeed, the house is known as much for its daring couture creations as for its surrealist hardware. Eyes, nose and lips have become a signature-hammered and wrought in gold-plated bronze with a vintage effect.

The latest season's designs from Schiaparelli include gilded lilies, strings of oyster shells, door knocker earrings, key holes, and hammered cuffs with shearling inlays. In his collection notes, Roseberry acknowledges his clientele's demand for powerful and distinctive design. "Quiet doesn't work for our women," he explains.